Original source:BarclaysFirst published on Unhidea:Original source date:
Key takeaway
Barclays believes the resilience of Hermès’ leather goods is not yet enough to lift overall growth expectations. In its view, valuation recovery requires expectations for non-leather goods and Asia-Pacific to be adjusted first, followed by results that drive upward revisions.
Why did the group still miss expectations when leather goods grew more than 10%?
Hermès reported third-quarter 2026 revenue of approximately 4.1 billion euros, up 4.3% year on year at constant exchange rates, below the market consensus of 5.3% and the second quarter’s 6.7%. Leather goods growth, however, accelerated from 10.2% in the second quarter to 10.8%, exceeding the consensus of 10.0%; non-leather goods businesses were the main drag on the group’s slowdown.
Non-leather goods businesses declined slightly overall. Ready-to-wear and accessories revenue fell 2.0%, against consensus expectations for growth of 2.3%. Ready-to-wear itself still grew, with fashion accessories the main drag; silk and textiles grew only 1.4%, also well below the consensus of 6.5%. Strength in leather goods did not extend to broader product demand.
Which regions are keeping growth expectations under pressure?
The Americas were the main source of the group’s deceleration from the second quarter: third-quarter growth at constant exchange rates fell from 13.7% to 8.8%, below the consensus of 11.0%. Asia-Pacific excluding Japan revenue was flat year on year, below the consensus of 1.5%, but Greater China still grew slightly; regional weakness cannot simply be described as a decline in China revenue.
Barclays attributes the slowdown mainly to demand issues among China’s aspirational luxury consumers. Hermès has less exposure to these customers than its peers, but its non-leather goods and Asia-Pacific performance shows it is still affected; Europe excluding France grew 9.5%, in line with consensus, showing that weakness did not occur simultaneously across all regions.
How do forecast cuts feed through to earnings?
Barclays cut its forecast for fourth-quarter group growth at constant exchange rates from 6.9% to 5.0%. Within that, leather goods was reduced by just 0.5 percentage points to 10.5%, while ready-to-wear and accessories was changed from growth of 4% to a decline of 1%; Asia-Pacific excluding Japan was changed from growth of 3% to flat, with the revisions still focused on non-leather goods and Asia.
The bank forecasts group growth at constant exchange rates of 5.4% and 5.8% in 2026 and 2027, respectively, and has cut its operating margin forecasts to 40.0% and 40.4%, respectively. Its 2027 margin forecast was previously 41.1%, and its tax-rate assumption has also risen from 30% to 33%; consequently, its earnings-per-share forecast was cut by approximately 7% to 48.7 euros, a larger reduction than the approximately 1.1% cut to its revenue forecast. Its 2026 earnings-per-share forecast was cut by approximately 2%.
Valuation has fallen sharply; why does Barclays maintain its equal-weight rating?
Since the start of the year, market expectations for Hermès’ constant-currency growth over the next 12 months have fallen from approximately 9%–10% to 6%–7%, while the corresponding forward price-to-earnings multiple has fallen from approximately 47 times in mid-January to approximately 27 times. Barclays believes the simultaneous weakening of sustained high growth and clear industry outperformance, which previously supported the premium, is the key to the valuation contraction.
The Ferrari comparison points to the sequence of a recovery: its share price recovered only after sales growth expectations began to be revised upward. Barclays believes that medium-term expectations for Hermès’ non-leather goods and Asia-Pacific businesses must first be lowered, and that it will take at least another 1–2 quarters before better-than-expected results drive upward forecast revisions.
Hermès provides guidance only for its leather goods business, which accounts for approximately 45% of sales, so adjustments to overall expectations depend more on analysts changing their models. Barclays maintains its equal-weight rating and has cut its price target from 1,660 euros to 1,570 euros, retaining the possibility of a medium-term recovery while remaining cautious in the short term.